How to Install Granite Countertops (Kitchen Tile)Step 1: Introduction to granite tile. Natural beauty, durability, resistance to heat and a sense of permanence are the hallmarks of a granite countertop. But ordinarily solid- stone countertops are a pricey proposition due to the special tooling and installation required. In this story, we’ll show you how to install an alternative—a solid- granite—tile countertop that costs about the same as a professionally installed plastic laminate countertop. That’s for a wide variety of standard granite tile selections, but be aware that you can pay considerably more for premium selections. We’ll cover preparing a solid subbase of 3/4- in. Next we’ll add a lightweight tile- backer material called “Denshield” over the plywood. And finally, we’ll lay out and install the 1. The trickiest part of installing stone tile countertops is cutting a crisp, clean countertop “nosing” (or front lip). This difficult task is simple when you use a homemade jig (Fig. B) that’s clamped to a tile saw’s sliding table (Photo 9) to cut perfect 4. ![]() Here is how I feel today! Just like Super Woman! HaHa! I didn’t accomplish anything too heroic, but I finally won the battle with my black granite composite sink. Use granite tile to create the look of a stone slab or solid surface countertop for your kitchen or bathroom – for a fraction of the cost. How do granite vs. quartz countertops compare? Here is a point-by-point comparison with a recommendation of the best between the two. Pros and Cons of Granite Kitchen Countertops | CounterTop Guides | Consumer Buying Guides to Bathroom and Kitchen Countertops. To finish off the gap at the backsplash of the counter, we’ve designed a unique, easy- to- install detail (Fig. A and Photo 1. 6) that efficiently uses the leftover tile trimmings from the nosing cuts. Figure A: Countertop Details. To calculate the number of tiles you need, multiply the lineal footage of 2. Then add as many tiles as required to cover wider peninsulas or islands and subtract for cooktops, stoves, sinks or other built- ins. Keep in mind that you’ll probably need partial tiles for filling around built- in appliances as well as at least a half dozen more tiles to allow for breakage and miscuts. Have extra tiles on hand; you can always return the leftovers. In addition to the tile, you’ll need: A 2. A 5- lb. bag of unsanded grout for the tile joints. Unsanded grout is easier to work into the narrow 1/8- in. ![]() A quart of polished- granite sealer to treat the tile and grout surfaces a week or so after grouting the tile (Photo 1. It will help prevent stains from penetrating the porous surface and enhance the natural beauty of the stone. A roll of fiberglass mesh tape for taping the Denshield seams (Photo 8). A 1/4- in. notched trowel for spreading the thinset (Photo 7). A 4- in. or 6- in. A 2- in. margin trowel (Photo 1. A honing stone to soften sharp exposed edges (Photo 1. A grout float for spreading and embedding the grout (Photo 1. Color- matching caulk to substitute for grout at inside corners (Photo 1. Plastic spacers for supporting the backsplash tiles (Photo 1. Fig. A: Cutaway. Step 2: Cutting granite. At first it might seem intimidating to work with tile that’s made from rock, but it’s not difficult. While you can’t score and snap it like ceramic tile, it cuts easily on a conventional diamond tile saw. In fact, you’ll make all of your cuts that way. Other than that, you’ll use the same tools, materials and techniques needed for ceramic tile except for the grout and sealer types. In addition to standard carpentry tools, you can rent or buy the tile- cutting saw. If you’re really organized and have underlayment installed and all the tile laid out and planned ahead of time, you can do all the cutting in one day. But if you want to take more time, it may be worth buying a saw, especially if you plan on tiling floors or perhaps a bathroom in the future. Also buy four rubber padded mini- clamps (Photo 9) to hold the tiles to the jig. Steel C- clamps may crack the tiles. But use a couple of small C- clamps to secure the jig to the saw table. Step 3: Preparing the cabinets. Photo 1: Getting started. Move aside stoves and refrigerators and pull the kitchen sink before removing the countertops. Then remove all of the lower cabinet drawers and doors and cabinet contents. Photo 2: Take out the old countertops. Unscrew the old countertops or pry them up with a flat bar if they’re glued. You’ll have to climb into the cabinets to access the screws at the corners. Photo 3: Install the blocking. Screw blocking along the backs of cabinets into the studs with 2- in. Screw blocking to hidden cabinet sides. At finished cabinet ends, glue on the blocking with construction adhesive and clamp until it sets. Photo 4: Screw on the plywood backing. Rip 3/4- in. plywood to project past cabinet fronts 5/8 in. Put the plywood factory edge to the front. Cut plywood to length so joints meet over blocking. Predrill and screw the plywood to the blocking and cabinet fronts with 1- 5/8 in. Photo 5: Cut out the opening for the sink. Lay out the sink opening following the manufacturer’s template or instructions and cut the opening with a jigsaw (careful, don’t wreck the cabinet fronts). Use a clamp and a block of wood to support the cutout until you finish the cut. Removing the old countertop can be easy if it’s just screwed to cabinet corner braces (Photo 2) or tough if it’s glued down. One peek inside the cabinets will tell you how it’s secured. If it’s glued down you’ll have to pry it loose with a flat bar. It’s best to pry from inside the cabinets to avoid damaging the finish. The key to flat, long- lasting tile countertops is a solid plywood base. Thin cabinet sides or corner braces simply won’t provide enough anchorage to hold the plywood flat and stable. After the tops are removed, you’ll have to build up cabinet edges with 1×4 or 2×4 blocking along cabinet backs, ends and areas where plywood splices will fall (Photos 3 and 4). Cut the 3/4- in. plywood underlayment to length so it splices over blocking using the factory edge of the plywood in the front for straight nosings. Cut plywood to length to fit flush with finished cabinet ends and 1 in. Lumberyard Materials. It’s not hard to estimate your lumberyard purchased materials. Here’s what you need: 3/4- in. You’ll need a full sheet of 3/4- in. Tile backer: Buy a 3. Denshield (or cement board if Denshield is not available) for every five lineal ft. Pick up enough 1x. Photos 3 and 4). 1×3 backsplash trim cap: Buy enough 1×3 trim lumber that matches your cabinets along with the necessary stain and finish to cap off the finished backsplash (Photos 1. Fig. A). One 1- lb. Denshield. One 1- lb. Step 4: Use cement board or Denshield for the tile backing. Photo 6: Cut the tile backer. Rip 3- 1/2 in. wide 3/4- in. Score and snap the tile backer to fit flush with the plywood edges. Span over sink openings and mark the underside with a pencil, then flip it over and cut out the opening with a jigsaw. Photo 7: Spread a layer of thinset Mix and spread a 1/8- in. Embed the Denshield in the thinset and nail it to the plywood with 1- in. Spread thinset over the backsplash and edges and screw on strips of tile backer with 1- 1/4 in. Photo 8: Anchor the mesh tape with thinset. Lay fiberglass mesh tape over the outside corners of the nosings and joints, and over the inside corners of the backsplash. Anchor the tape with a thin layer of thinset, embedding it with a putty knife. You’re probably already familiar with cement tile backer board, which is completely acceptable, but a gypsum- based material called “Denshield” (Photo 6) is also a great choice for countertop tile bases. It has a gypsum core like drywall, but the core and the sheathing have been modified to repel moisture and accept a tile overlay with conventional bonding adhesives. If you’ve ever struggled with cutting and installing cement board, you’ll appreciate working with Denshield. It’s lightweight and you cut, snap, rasp and fasten it exactly like standard drywall. It’s sold throughout the country, and home centers usually stock the 3. Splice the Denshield wherever you wish, but keep in mind that all of the splices and the outside and inside corners need to be taped with fiberglass mesh tape and a thin layer of thinset (Photo 8), so avoid using lots of little pieces. Figure B: Building and Using the Tile Mitering Gig. This miter jig will fit on most tile saws, but it may need alteration for some models. See Fig. B for the cutting sizes of the mitering- jig components. Use any flat 1/2- in. A table saw is the tool to use. Cut the parts, then spread exterior- grade woodworker’s glue on the edges and tack them together with 1- in. Rest the jig on a flat table and clamp a tile to the angled jig surface with the bottom of the tile resting on the tabletop. Then rest the narrow stop block against the top of the tile and glue and tack it to the jig. Positioning the jig and clamping it securely are crucial for consistent miters. The objective is to get a perfectly even miter that ends right at the edge of the 1/1.
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